SALT WATER COWBOYS, St. Augustine, Florida

written by Claudia McCants



When I think of autumn, I immediately conjure memories of Salt Water Cowboys, one of our all-time favorite restaurants on Anastasia Island near historic St. Augustine. In 2007, Jacksonville Magazine mentioned the restaurant as one of the best in the region.

North Florida can be downright brisk during the fall and winter months. I call it "coat weather". That's the kind of day we were experiencing on our first visit to Salt Water Cowboys last year. The rustic building is reminiscent of a turn-of-the-century fish camp, with plank siding, a tin roof, and a long covered porch that flanks a salt marsh. Dinner is served seven days a week. No reservations are accepted, so we planned to arrive early when they opened their doors at five o'clock. At that time, We were amazed to find the parking lot already full to brimming. I don't know if they are always jam-packed, but it's definitely a popular place to dine on a Sunday afternoon. We gave the hostess our last name and sat outside on the porch where we enjoyed the view and watched the sun set over the Intracoastal Waterway. The evening air quickly chilled us to the bone so we sipped hot beverages and chatted with other patrons until we were seated inside within 30 minutes of our arrival.

The dining room was warm and inviting, with 100-year-old wooden floors, handmade willow twig furniture, and rusted tin ceilings with gator and snake skins mounted on the walls. Lace curtains and hanging plants added charm to its home-like atmosphere. The waitress was friendly and attentive. We were pleased when she delivered our sweet tea in Mason Jars, a sure sign that a southern meal is on the way. We often find ourselves reminiscing about the salad made with lettuce, spinach, onions, apple slices, walnuts and topped with the most wonderful tangy apple vinagrette dressing. My mouth still waters when I think about it again. Their savory freshly baked cheese bread quickly disappeared and our waitress brought more. The whole family loves clam chowder so we each had a cup of the New England variety. It was pleasantly thick with big clams, really delicious and very satisfying.

You might wonder what I can say about fried shrimp. Popcorn shrimp, 24 shrimp in a basket, and shrimp po-boy sandwiches appear on many menus, but most of the time it's hard to say anything unique or special about fried anything. Shrimp is shrimp. I've yet to find a shrimp I didn't like--be it chilled, fried, steamed or added to an entree--but I feel my job is to tell you why the shrimp at Salt Water Cowboys helps put them near the top of THE FLORIDA FOODIES' Favorite Restaurants list. You see, I take my shrimp and seafood (all food!) very seriously. So, with that said...

My son and I ordered fried shrimp and we were not disappointed. What made their shrimp "IT WORTHY" was that they served what I refer to as "2-bite shrimp". That means, it takes two, sometimes three, bites to finish one piece without stuffing the whole shrimp into your mouth until you look like a chipmunk. I may not be perfect, but I do try to show a little dignity and manners when eating in public. Not only were the locally-raised shrimp fried to perfection, but their coating was light, crispy and definitely not greasy or over-fried. I knew my son was enjoying his meal when his expression became concentrated and he stopped talking. He did make a few "Mmmm-mmm" noises now and then. The typical teen, he enjoyed a double order of fries, but I chose a baked potato along with a side of delicious home-style baked beans. My mother enjoyed but couldn't finish an extra-large portion of crisp grouper that was fried in the same light breading used for the shrimp. She said the fish was very flaky and prepared the way she likes it. She has a small appetite, but she ate more than she usually finishes at any meal which in itself is a real compliment to the chef. Hubby ordered his favorite fried catfish, coleslaw and a huge order of fries.

The menu offers a selection of "Florida Cracker Cooking", which includes chicken, catfish, cooter (soft shell turtle), alligator and frog legs...all fried, of course. For less adventurous people like me, they offer steamed or fried oysters, soft shell crabs, and they'll grill, fry or broil scallops, shrimp or the catch of the day to be served with lemon butter. Shrimp is also offered stuffed or "scampi style", and most of the above is available in a combination platter served with your choice of two sides. If you like your food hot and spicy, the chicken, steaks and seafood can be prepared blackened; or you might want to order their Cowboy Jambalaya. Their open-pit barbeque (ribs, chicken and shrimp) garnered accolades from The Food Network when they featured Salt Water Cowboys on "The Best of BBQ Bites". You can eat "expensive" or "cheap" at this restaurant, depending on your taste and pocketbook. Cowboy Quickies, like a hamburger, clam strips or chicken tenders start at $5.49. Barbeque starts at $9.99 up to $21.99, depending on the meat and size of portion. The bill for our family of four came in at less than $80. We didn't have appetizers or dessert. No room for that!

If you're searching for a restaurant that serves Florida old-style cooking, Salt Water Cowboys won't disappoint you. After more than 30 years of serving locals and tourists, they have garnered a well-deserved, well-respected reputation. Just remember that this is casual eating and that this restaurant does not serve what I refer to as "snooty food". They do not present a gourmet menu with glorified finger food offered as a main course. Instead, they serve generous portions and a variety of delicious down-to-earth food that is both tasty and memorable.

The Florida Foodies rarely dine at franchised restaurants because we feel they too often serve mediocre food that does not merit long lines and even longer waits. Time is precious when you're really hungry and anxious for a delicious meal. However, we definitely will wait patiently for a seat at a one-of-a-kind local restaurant like Salt Water Cowboys because great food and a welcoming atmosphere are always worth the wait.

Our 30-minute waiting period at Salt Water Cowboys proved to be just the beginning of an enjoyable evening and a great dining experience for all four members of our party. There wasn't a single complaint at the table, How often does that happen? You know the answer to that...